Solutions to Common Problems in Your Garden: I Could Have Sworn I Planted a Bulb Here

Bulbs produce glorious flowers in a wide range of colors, shapes, and sizes. Some have luxurious, velvety flowers; some are intricate and strange; others are just bright and cheerful. Whether you are a fan of bulbs or not, everyone is happy to see early season bulbs emerge through the snow, heralding the onset of spring.

Bulbs look wonderful in naturalistic plantings or in formal displays. The easiest way to create a naturalistic planting is to throw a handful of bulbs on the ground, and plant them where they land. Groups of 12 bulbs or more tend to work best. In a mixed-bulb planting, plant groups of 5-7 bulbs in drifts, making sure different varieties intermingle and overlap. Formal displays should be laid out in advance to ensure a uniform structure.

In the New York area, some bulbs, such as daffodils (Narcissus), come back year after year, while others, such as tulips (Tulipa), tend to be short-lived and can be treated as annuals. The best way to increase their longevity is to provide optimum growing conditions.

Most bulbs thrive in free-draining, sunny locations in the garden. Others, such as wood anemones (Anemone nemerosa), dog-tooth violets (Erythronium), and snowdrops (Galanthus), are woodland plants that need humus-rich soil (rich in organic matter) and shadier conditions.

The basic rule of thumb for most bulbs is to plant them three times their height and space them three times their width. Be sure to plant bulbs with tops side up - the pointed side. If you are not sure, lay the bulb on its side, and it will find its way to the surface. Other general rules are to plant bulbs deeper in the North than in the South; deep in light sandy soils, shallow in heavy clay; and sink larger bulbs a little deeper than three times their height, while keeping smaller bulbs closer to the surface.

Spacing is a personal preference and will depend on the look that you are trying to create. Remember that many bulbs, such as daffodils (Narcissus), multiply quickly and should not be planted too closely. Bulbs should never touch each other when planted - if one rots, it will cause others to deteriorate.

In a cultivated garden, loosen the soil with a garden fork and rake the soil level. Hold your trowel so the front is facing you, stick in the ground, and pull toward you. Place the bulb in the space that you have made behind the blade. Pull the trowel out and firm soil.

When planting bulbs in a lawn, cut a large strip of grass and pull it back. Loosen the soil underneath as instructed above, and plant your bulbs. Alternatively, use a bulb planter or spade to make small holes and drop them in. When planting bulbs, incorporate a bulb fertilizer or balanced fertilizer into the soil mix and amend the soil as necessary (see below in tips).

Plant your bulbs immediately after receiving them. Most spring-flowering bulbs can be planted in September - October. Wait until October to plant tulips (Tulipa) and lilies (Lilium). Bulbs should be firm and plump. If they cave in when you squeeze them or are full of mildew (a little is fine), soft, and rotting, throw them out.

Growing Tips:

* Plant bulbs in areas with good drainage. Poor drainage will increase the chance of the bulbs rotting.
* Let the foliage die back on its own. Once the foliage starts to yellow it can be cleaned up. Bulbs need a six-week period for the foliage to photosynthesize and put energy back into the bulb for the following year's flowers. Remember, if your bulbs are planted in the lawn, do not mow the area during the six-week period.
* When using bulbs for cut flowers, remove as little foliage as possible.
* Fertilize established planting in the fall with bulb fertilizer or a balance fertilizer (e.g. 5-5-5 or 5-10-5).
* Amend the soil before planting. Aged compost, peat moss, or well - rotted organic matter is ideal for amending soil. For improved drainage add grit or sand (sharp sand, not builders sand, which compacts).

Strategies for Protecting Bulbs: The culprits: Squirrels, voles, deer, humans
* Plant pest-resistant bulbs such as 'Tommy' crocus (Crocus tommasinianus), daffodils (Narcissus), hyacinths (Hyacinthus), fritillary (Fritillaria), grape-hyacinths (Muscari), snowdrops (Galanthus), and ornamental onions (Allium).
* If planting just a few bulbs, build a mesh or wire cage to prevent them from being dug up or eaten by squirrels and voles. Use 1/2 hardware cloth for the bottom and sides of the cage and larger chicken wire for the top.
* Add a handful of sharp grit to the holes when planting tulips and other bulbs to prevent voles from tunneling up.
* Plant bulbs in large left-over plastic pots from plants purchased at a nursery. Add three inches of soil to the bottom of the pot, mix in fertilizer, sink the pot and bulbs into the ground just below soil level, and fill in. This will protect bulbs from voles and prevent you from slicing through them when digging in your perennial garden.
* Cover newly planted beds with plastic bird netting, window screens, or hardware cloth to prevent squirrels and other animals from digging up newly planted bulbs.
* Plant bulbs that are susceptible to vole damage among patches of Narcissus. Voles hate daffodils and will stay away from the area.
* Spray newly emerging shoots with deer repellent or surround the area with blood meal.

If you would like to expand your bulb collection, but end up destroying existing bulbs by slicing through them as you plant, here are a few helpful tips.
* In the spring, when the bulbs are out, inter-plant them with summer-flowering bulbs like gladioli or annuals. At the end of the season, pull out the summer-flowering bulbs or annuals, and replant the holes with more spring bulbs.
* Find creative ways of marking bulbs, so when the foliage disappears you know where they are planted. Suggestions include: colored golf tees, surrounding spring bulbs with fall-blooming crocuses, or marking the area with perennials. Fall bulbs include autumn crocus (Colchicum), autumn-flowering crocus (Crocus speciosus), cyclamen (Cyclamen), snowdrops (Galanthus reginae-olgae), and nerine (Nerine).

Season: Fall